Jewellery jewellery chain calls for help. At Cannes, the starlets continue to display with the finest adornments loaned by the houses. But with the crisis, the wealthy Russian clients or us and the less fortunate have slowed their purchases of rings and necklaces. Therefore, since early 2009, houses of place Vendôme, Cartier, Chaumet, Boucheron and others such as Dior decreased drastically commands to their subcontractors. Except Cartier, the large claws of jewellery are only a few tens of people internally to perform pieces to the command. The rest of their collections in the world is made by employees on average, 20 shops known for the quality of their manufacture, with creations reaching hundreds of thousands of euros.
Collection of trades

The hexagon has about 3,500 subcontractors of this type, in Paris and Lyon mainly. They are now very threatened. Already, the Beauce (50 employees) is in liquidation and Georland (60 employees) was placed in receivership. Forty of these experts would be in great difficulty. Since January, their order books fell by an average of 60. "There was a break." "Sales in department stores decreased by 15 to 20, but the impact on our business was down 50 to 60, because claws lead massive removal operations," said a business leader.
The head of a workshop for 20 persons, this pattern, which prefers to remain anonymous, has a turnover of EUR 5.5 million and manufactures some 4,000 pieces per year, sold price between 6,000 and 10,000 euros. At the beginning of the year, I was still six months of work in the portfolio." Today, it remains thirty days maximum. "After having discharged the leave, use of partial unemployment, this leader had to lay off 5 employees, young people, to keep the more expert hands.
Like him, another leader of several workshops in Paris and province should secede from 18 people on 114 over the months. And this is not finished. His house, more than century-old (17 million of turnover), can still take until October, further reducing the positions. Step beyond. "There is a collection of trades in our workshops, polishers, the sertisseurs, the controllers, with a low versatility, he explains." When it removes a stone of this building, it is architecture that is destabilized. "Ask and terminate at the foundry, even though there is almost more work, because it is the beginning of the chain of supply for any workshop.
According to the Union French jewellery, jewellery, silver, diamonds, precious stones and pearls dealers (BJOP), 3,000 to 5,000 jobs over 11,000 in France may disappear this year and the turnover of the manufacturers in the sector, 2 billion in 2008, could be divided by 2.
"A minimum of solidarity."
"We are very concerned, because is the sustainability of this know-how is at stake, insists Bernadette Pinet-Cuoq, its Chairperson delegated." Our companies accompanied the growth of claws by investing, by recruiting, training for ten years. It should be a minimum of solidarity in the sector. "Union alerted the Government in March, no reply," textile and wood sectors are, they helped. "
For the responsible, it is not question to seek funding. "Our members want a dialogue with major donors to order so that they provide for a minimum of controls." This would be an investment for the future. "Because if the workshops are obliged to deposit the balance sheet, it will be impossible to revive then. "If nothing is done in the coming weeks, there is not a sufficient production capacity when the activity will leave", says a pattern.